Friday's Reading List

blog_list1_01.jpgNo one is immune. Steven Meisel spreads a fashion virus as contagious as H1N1 in an editorial spread for Vogue Italia. refinery29

Going brow-less. Find out how supermodels who bleached their brows for S/S 2010 shows didn't get burned by the fairest-of-all trend. Fashionista

Trainspotting meets trendspotting. Warren Buffet just bought a railroad for $26 Billion and now overalls are spring's runaway hit. Are you ready to get on board? Style.com

Fly Chanel Fly! Chanel Iman has been chosen to be one of the new Victoria Secret Angels for 2009. Here's a rundown of just how high those wings can take her. Glamour

Forget cocktail rings.The must have party accessory is the finger food ring--if you actually eat at parties. SwissMiss

Yea or Nay! Do or Don't! Camilla Belle in McQueen's peacock moment has bloggers all a flutter. Style.com, Glamour

The well-dressed underdog. NYC got mobbed this week by Lloyd Dobler dopplegangers to celebrate the release of Say Anything on Blu-Ray proving that the t-shirt, trench and boombox ensemble is still a classic alt boy look. Popcandy

Narciso's latest launch: "Every woman needs a signature scent. Sunlight and musk were the inspiration behind Essence, my newest fragrance. No scent is more sensual or more memorable to me than musk," he says. Plus he reveals his favorite looks, secret obsession and best online gift store. Huffingtonpost

Bye bye Botox. A British doctor has created a new "Dracula Therapy" where your own blood is drawn, reformulated and re-injected into your face for lasting immortality, we mean youth. StyleList

More…

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Anna Sui's fuzzy FitFlop

blog_suishoes_01.jpgOne never knows where or when fashion inspiration will strike. Marcia Kilgore’s latest sartorial "aha" moment happened at the hairdresser’s. Earlier this year, Kilgore—founder of Bliss and creator of the hugely popular FitFlop brand of leg-toning footwear—ran into Anna Sui at New York’s Garren salon. Chatting with her old pal, Kilgore realized Sui would be a great match with FitFlop and asked the designer if she was interested in putting her stamp on a new style. “She had done those fantastic-looking boots with beading and pom-poms a few seasons ago, and they still stuck in my mind,” explained Kilgore. “I said, ‘Let’s do a big furry boot!’”

Sui agreed. “I was so excited because I had actually just bought a pair of FitFlops,” she said. “Everyone in our office had been sporting them and saying how comfortable they were.” The result is the Shakoha Boot FitFlop, which features a studded star on the front and tasseled ties. A limited edition of 1,500 pairs, are on sale for $195 each at L.A.’s Intuition boutique and on Net-a-Porter.com.

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Artistic License

blog_aaron_banner.jpgMontana, my home state, has gone back to black: After following all the other states in adapting those horrid plates with lurid pictures of landscapes and stupid slogans, Montana now shows just the state's outline around white numerals. And it's beautiful.

blog_license_01.jpg American license plates were once both simple and diverse. Every state had its own color combination. I was particularly fond of California's black and yellow. The numbers and letters were always rough, and usually a bit tall and narrow, so all those numbers and letters could fit the standard plate. But then the engineers took over and scientifically proved that certain color combinations were safer. Not to be outdone, the accountants figured out that people would pay extra for eagles soaring, wagon trains rolling, flags waving and broncos bucking. In most states, prisoners still made the plates and one of a handful of companies set up the presses, but the images lost their graphic purity and devolved into bumper stickers.

Montana, the Big Sky State, is now bigger than all that again. Its plate is strong and clear and the same one is offered to all. And its typeface, "Penitentiary Gothic," conveys both the ruggedness of the state's landscape and a slight tinge of outlaw danger. Montana's got it right.

blog_license_02.jpg Critic, curator and museum director Aaron Betsky is the architecture world's ultimate insider and tastemaker. He curated the Venice Architecture Biennale in 2008, ran Rotterdam's Netherlands Architecture Institute from 2001-2006 and these days, helms the Cincinnati Art Museum. See his previous blogs HERE and check back next Thursday for his next post.

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Beauty obsession of the week: Fine pines

blog_pine_03.jpgI'm a total pushover for anything that smells like a pine forest. Not a cardboard car freshener kind of forest, of course, but something with the authentic scent of the deep woods. Soap & Paper Factory makes a room spray, room diffuser, soy candle and shea butter soap in a divine scent called "Roland Pine" that's so amazing, all the other scented items in our home have been currently shelved. Personally, I'm not fond of diffusers (never have been), but I use the soap with every shower and I use the spray to quell any of unfortunate canine odors. The candle sits here in my office at my desk (unlit, of course -- don't want the fire marshall coming after me). Every time I lift it to my nose, I can't help but wonder, "Man, how did they get pine down so perfectly?"

blog_pine_01.jpgFor more information, see soapandpaperfactory.com.

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Five minutes with French decorator Jacques Garcia

blog_jacquesgarcia_01.jpgJacques Garcia has been an architect and decorator for more than three decades, but he became a star in the Nineties due to two Paris projects: the ever-trendy Costes hotel and the Sultan of Brunei’s pied-à-terre. His signature style—an exotic mix of 17th and 18th century references, nourished by a deep knowledge of French heritage—attracts clients from all parts of the globe. The 62-year-old French designer just completed Marrakech’s mythic Mamounia hotel, as well as the Pavillon by Costes hotel in Shangaï. A true perfectionist, he devoted more than a decade to restoring Champ de Bataille, his 17th century château in Normandy.

blog_jacquesgarcia_02.jpg In your opinion, what is so special about the Mamounia hotel?
It’s not a hotel, it’s a myth. It’s part of the memory of the city. Few people have been there, but everyone talks about it. At any rate, today a lot of people don’t have much knowledge. It could have been that way before my time also, but sometimes I feel very few people open books.

Given that the renovation took place during a major financial crisis, were there significant budget constraints?
No, I don’t get into financial details! The renovation cost 120 million euros. I can tell you I did not make any money on this project. But they went all the way with it, so that’s fine. Otherwise, I would have sued them.

What other projects did you get a kick from?
The Shangaï Costes hotel is just incredible. When you think of Shangaï, you think China no? Well, nothing there is traditional Chinese style; everything is contemporary. So it was just great to create this hotel in the Chinese style but with European eyes.

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What are you working on next?
Two other hotels in Marrakech. The first one is next to the Mamounia. I’m using the same artisans but it’s more modern. The second one is the former Pur Sang hotel. It will have a stud farm. And I’m redoing all the 17th and 18th century rooms at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, free of charge. It will be finished in 2012. You can call that being a good citizen.

What’s your dream project?
I’ve done it. It’s Champ de Bataille.

What’s your top vacation destination?
I enjoy India a lot. But overall, I like to drive my car through France and do some antique hunting. That’s my favorite occupation.

Portrait: Pierre-Yves Hery Vaillant

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Oh Mandy! We love your new wine bar

blog_ardesia2.jpgHaving spent the last six years as the right hand woman of Le Bernardin chef-owner Eric Ripert, Mandy Oser, 33, might just be the most well-prepared rookie restauranteur in town. Along with a group of partners, Oser just opened Ardesia, a wine bar serving a tasty array of gourmet snacks, desserts, salads and sandwiches in far west midtown. The New Jersey native and former congressional staffer chatted with us about her unconventional career path, opening her own place and why celeb chefs aren't so different from senators.
 
This space is really dramatic, with a double height wine wall. How did you approach the design?
I asked a dear friend of mine, Mimi Madigan, who is an architect, whether she had any advice for us in our search for a designer and she said, "Can I throw my hat into the ring?" She ended up doing it as side project from her main job, which is working with Annabelle Seldorf. Like it is for me, this is her first independent project.
 
blog_ardesia_mandy.jpgSpeaking of day jobs, you haven't given up yours. How are you balancing Ardesia with your position at Le Bernardin?
I took a couple weeks off to get things up and running. Moving forward there are other partners involved so we'll sort of be balancing it that way.
 
Has Chef Ripert been supportive?
He's been really helpful. He and Maguy (Le Coze, co-owner of Le Bernardin) are a constant source of inspiration for me. In practical terms, the way they manage the team at Le Bernardin has been a great lesson. In Eric's book On The Line there's a list of 129 cardinal sins that a server should avoid and that just sort of rattles in the back of my mind all the time.
 
blog_ardesia.jpgTell us about the food.
Our chef, Amorette Casaus, came from [Chelsea tapas bar] El Quinto Pino and trained earlier in her career under Gray Kunz. We sort of conceived the menu as a collection of our favorite things to eat while drinking so we have homemade New York style soft pretzels, house cured charcuterie and ice cream sandwiches with a really thick cookie crust.
 
What are some of your favorite wine bars in the city?
I love Tia Pol, Terroir and Sorella, this little restaurant that two women opened on the Lower East Side.
 
How did you get into the restaurant industry?
After college, I moved to DC and worked as a junior aid for Senator Robert Toricelli. Then I worked at a law firm focusing on international trade -- pretty soon I was bored to death. On the side I was working at a little bistro in my neighborhood and I realized I liked it more than my day job. My best friend, who worked for City Harvest at the time, heard that Eric was hiring and said "Why don't you try it?" I didn't even know who Eric was but I thought "What the hell?" That was over six years ago.
 
Do you see any similarities between the restaurant world and the political world?
Definitely. It's very dynamic in the way that politics is, always changing, always something new. And in terms of how it's organized, the Le Bernardin office is not dissimilar from a senate office only instead of a press secretary, a scheduler, a legislative director and all that, there's just me. I'm a chief of staff of one!

Ardesia, 510 West 52nd St, New York, NY

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Let them eat cake

blog_gallery_goround.jpgCollectors may have tightened their belts, but the crowd thronging the gallery Haunch of Venison last night was happy to loosen them to sample the mouth-watering art on display. Thrown by Kreemart and American Patrons of Tate, the event showcased commissioned cakes by four artists, each of whom designed a delectable work in collaboration with a leading pastry chef.

blog_cakes_03.jpg Leandro Erlich teamed with Guido Mogni of Sant Ambroeus to produce “You Can’t have Your Cake and eat it too,” which took the form of a lifesize chocolate sofa, while Rob Wynne made “Cake, Cake” (the word ‘Cake’ spelled out in letters made of cake, as shown above) aided by Lidia Bastianich and Brooks Headly of Del Posto.

blog_cakes_01.jpg Mickalene Thomas, meanwhile, sent topless beauties (above) into the fray, bearing trays laden with cakes that they hand-fed to anyone eager to take a bite. (Thomas' treats came via Bob Spiegel of Creative Edge) And artist Marina Abramović, working with Daniel’s Dominique Ansel, kept herself busy conducting the “Abramović experiment,” wherein participants were invited to don lab coats and smear gold leaf over their lips before gathering in a cluster to form a symbolic cake with their bodies. Cakes, naturally, were their reward for all that hard work.

blog_cakes_02.jpg blog_cakes_07.jpg blog_cakes_05.jpg blog_cakes_06.jpgMarina Abramović

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The fashion designer pop stars love: Zaldy

033005_11.jpgThe fashion and music industries have always had a symbiotic relationship, but every now and then a talent comes along who makes the worlds collide. Even if you haven't heard of fashion designer Zaldy Goco, you likely know his clothes -- whether a slinky dress designed with Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B or a day-glo bodysuit worn by a Scissor Sister. The Parsons and FIT-trained designer (who goes only by his first name) actually started his career as a model, walking for Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood. (He also starred in a controversial Levi's commercial, posing as a both a man and a woman.) He's since styled the likes of Britney and Jennifer Lopez and has recently designed gowns for Gabby Sidibe, star of Precious. Perhaps most intriguingly, Zaldy designed what would have been the "This is It" tour costumes for Michael Jackson. Those costumes are now in London as part of the late star's memorabilia tour.
 
WWD has called you called music's fashion it boy -- 
It's funny because I had never really thought of myself that way. But I have done so many music projects that I guess it is true. I did Mary J Blige's outfit for her album cover of Breakthrough, I've worked with Britney, J. Lo, Keith Richards, Rufus Wainwright, Mick Jagger and Anthony and the Johnsons.
 
Who were some of your favorite collaborators?
I worked with Gwen Stefani on her line L.A.M.B for seven seasons. I love her style so much and it ended up being a great experience. The Scissor Sisters are incredible and so fun to dress. They were like, the more sparkles and day-glo the better!
 
blog_zaldy_mj.jpgWe have to ask about Michael Jackson -- you designed the costumes for his tour?
He is magnificent. He's so sharp; he could talk about anything from Baroque art to contemporary fashion. We only had eight weeks to make it all; we had shoes being made in Italy, glasses in France, electronics in the Netherlands. I have a half-hour segment introducing all the outfits on the "This is It" DVD.
 
What are some of the outfits you designed for him?
My first idea was for [an updated] "Billy Jean" -- in the video the sidewalk lit up but I thought he should light up. The engineers at Phillips let me work with stuff that won't be released until 2010. It is the most technologically advanced outfit ever made. The "Thriller" jacket is still black and red but it's patent leather and the quilting became embroidered blood that drips over his shoulders. There are twists to the outfits but each still remains true to the original. The last thing I made for him was the casket overlay, which is a beautiful blanket of Swarovski crystals.
 
What's your next big project?
I can't say who it is but I'm designing the tour outfits for a new artist. After I did Michael I got depressed because I thought, who can I work with now that will inspire me like that? And then this artist came along and I thought "She's the one." You'll find out shortly but I can't quite yet.

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The Tuesday Reading List

Heavyweight champ! Kate Winslet just won a settlement for around $40,000 from The UK's Daily Mail for reporting that she had lied about her exercise routine. The pro-curves actress didn't break a sweat over suing to set the record straight. The Daily Beast.

Meow! Our kind of First Lady is not afraid to take fashion risks. We love this belt Michelle wore to kick off a new mentoring group she has created created for teens girls in the Washington area who will gather at the at the White House on a monthly basis. The Cut alluded to the fact that MObama may be too "on trend", but when you are addressing a bunch of Gossip Girl fans we're not sure you can be.
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Double Meow! Lady Gaga has been spotted at fashion shows and rumors are circulating about her desire to start her own line, but yesterday the buzz was about her first foray as a fashion model. Fashionista reports the Daily Mail leaked photos of her posing as Hello Kitty to celebrate the Sanrio siren's 35th Birthday. The images will be featured on Gaga's album The Fame and in a blending of cult-figure meets full-on fetish: a lock of Lady Gaga's hair will be sold with a limited edition box sets. Can a Marc Jacobs ad be far behind?
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The Moment reports on Jonathan Zawada's blog Fashematics where he tracks the possible inspiration for some of the season's best looks. These equations are so fun we want to ask him to do more for extra credit.
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Honey, I shrunk the house!

blog_housering_01.jpgWho knew? In the 16th and 17th centuries Jewish wedding rings were often shaped as miniature houses, symbolizing the couple's new home together and in memory of the destroyed temples in Jerusalem... I certainly didn't, until I met with French jewelry designer Philippe Tournaire who's spent many years traveling the globe photographing beautiful homes. "Villa de Reve" is his collection of rings, cufflinks and watches inspired by extraordinary villas around the world. You can even get a custom replica of your home to adorn your finger. Above, Tournaire's gold and diamond ring inspired by a villa in Tuscany.

Philippe is not the only one transforming architecture into breathtaking gems. On recent market appointments, we've been seeing some really amazing variations on this theme. Lydia Courteille's love for Paris, for instance, inspired this diamond, ruby and gold tiara (below), featuring Montmartre, Moulin Rouge and of course the Eiffel Tower.

blog_housering_02.jpg "For me, making jewellery is about creating miniature sculptures," says London-based designer Jessica McCormack. Her latest collection, "Urban Nights," takes inspiration from city skylines and iconic London buildings. One of my favorites is the "BT tower" earrings inspired by the British Telecom Tower (below).

blog_housering_03.jpg Each piece Turkish designer Sevan Bicakci makes is a love poem to his homeland's cultural history. Bicakci is a master of the reverse stone carved intaglio, and this ring (below) is an interpretation of Istanbul's domed Hagia Sophia.

blog_housering_04.jpg Last but not least: Check out this fantastic mismatching pair of earrings—a ship and anchor—by Arman. blog_housering_06.jpg

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